Chasing the Aurora: A Journey Through Interior Alaska
There’s something magical about the aurora borealis — an ethereal, dancing light that paints the Alaskan sky in streaks of green, purple, and pink. For those lucky enough to witness it, the northern lights are not just a phenomenon of nature; they are a spiritual experience, a moment that transcends time and place. As the seasons shift in Alaska, auroras grow more vibrant, especially in the interior of the state, where clear skies, cold temperatures, and minimal light pollution create the perfect environment for these awe-inspiring displays.
Last weekend, I embarked on what felt like an endless, but exhilarating, series of drives through the interior of Alaska, chasing clear skies and gaps in the clouds that might offer a glimpse of the aurora. From Nanana to Fairbanks and Paxson, the journey took me into some of the most remote and pristine landscapes in the state. It was a weekend of chasing the lights, battling fatigue, and staying up until sunrise — a pursuit that demanded patience but rewarded me with the most spectacular views of the aurora.
This trip, spanning the nights of November 8th and 9th, was one for the books, an experience that perfectly encapsulates the unique beauty of Alaska’s northern lights and the passion of those who seek them.
The Magic of the Interior
Interior Alaska is known for its vast, unspoiled wilderness, dotted with small towns and scattered homesteads. The landscape here is rugged and pristine, with towering mountains, vast forests, and rivers that snake through the valleys. This region is one of the best places on Earth to see the aurora borealis, and it offers a more remote, intimate experience compared to the more tourist-heavy areas near the coast.
The further north you travel in Alaska, the more you feel the power of nature — and in the interior, that power is amplified by the aurora. The lights are not just a visual spectacle; they feel like a force of nature that you can almost touch. When you’re driving alone through the dark, empty roads of places like Nanana, Fairbanks, and Paxson, it’s easy to feel like you’re on the edge of the world, surrounded by the raw beauty of nature and the mysteries of the sky.
Nanana: A Quiet Starting Point
My first stop was Nanana, a small town along the Tanana River, located about 50 miles south of Fairbanks. Nanana is a place where time seems to slow down. There’s a deep sense of history here, with the town originally established during the gold rush era, but today, it remains a quiet community with little more than a handful of buildings and the occasional passing vehicle.
I arrived late in the evening, hoping to find a clear sky and a perfect vantage point for the aurora. Nanana is far enough from Fairbanks to avoid the light pollution, but it still has enough services and accommodations to make it a reasonable place to rest and retool between aurora-chasing missions. As I settled in, the air was crisp, and the sky was mostly clear, with just a few clouds skimming across the horizon.
I spent the next several hours on the road, venturing to different spots outside of town, hoping for a break in the clouds. The night was quiet, still, and freezing — a reminder that Alaska’s wilderness doesn’t just belong to the wildlife but to those who are brave enough to chase the lights into the cold. It’s not just about the lights; it’s about the stillness, the sense of isolation, and the connection to something greater than yourself.
By the time the aurora started to emerge, faint at first, I was well outside Nanana’s boundaries, parked at a pull-off along a remote highway. There, the sky seemed to open up. The lights started as faint streaks, but within minutes, they exploded into swirling bands of green and purple, weaving and twisting in the vast expanse above me.
I spent hours parked there, watching in awe as the aurora danced above. The air was so cold that my fingers felt numb on the camera, but the beauty of the lights kept me rooted to the spot. As I packed up to head back into town, the sunrise was already beginning to peek over the horizon, signaling the end of yet another sleepless, aurora-filled night.
Fairbanks: The Heart of Aurora Chasing
Fairbanks, Alaska’s second-largest city, is often seen as the heart of aurora viewing in the state. It lies under the auroral oval, the area with the highest probability of seeing auroras, and it draws thousands of visitors each year from around the world who come to witness the lights in their full glory.
Fairbanks has all the amenities you’d expect from a small city — restaurants, hotels, and shops — but it also provides access to some of the best aurora viewing spots in the state. While there are several locations to catch the aurora within the city limits, the best views are often found just outside of Fairbanks, away from the lights of the city.
On the second night of my journey, I set out from Fairbanks just after dinner, knowing that I had a few hours of clear sky ahead of me before the clouds rolled back in. My goal was to head out to the outskirts of the city to a place called Murphy Dome, one of the most popular aurora viewing locations in the area. The road to Murphy Dome is winding and unpaved in spots, but it rewards those who are willing to make the drive with an unobstructed view of the northern sky.
As I drove up the winding, dark road to Murphy Dome, I could feel my excitement building. The temperature dropped rapidly as I ascended into the foothills, and when I finally reached the top, I was greeted by an incredible view of the valley below. The lights were already starting to make their appearance, faint green ribbons across the dark sky.
It wasn’t long before the aurora intensified, turning into the swirling, colorful display that made this journey worth every minute of the cold. I parked my car at the top of the dome and spent hours taking photographs and simply marveling at the sight.
In the stillness of the night, with only the sound of the wind rustling through the trees, I felt as though I was witnessing a cosmic ballet, a performance that had been rehearsed for thousands of years. The aurora danced for me that night, casting its light over the snow-covered hills, as I stood alone in the frigid air, grateful for the opportunity to witness such an extraordinary phenomenon.
Paxson: The Far North
After spending two nights chasing the aurora in and around Fairbanks, I decided to head further south, toward Paxson, a small village along the Richardson Highway. Paxson lies at the junction of the Denali Highway, one of Alaska’s most scenic and remote roads. Though small, Paxson offers one of the best vantage points for aurora chasing, thanks to its proximity to the wilderness and its low levels of light pollution.
The drive from Fairbanks to Paxson was long but beautiful, passing through rolling hills, dense forests, and frozen lakes. As I neared Paxson, the sky began to clear, and I could see the faint glow of the aurora in the distance. I stopped at a pull-off near the town and, once again, began my vigil.
This night was particularly clear, and the aurora didn’t disappoint. Bands of green light filled the sky, but what made this night so special was the unexpected purple and pink hues that began to streak across the northern horizon. These colors are rarer and more difficult to capture on camera, but the sight was unforgettable.
As I stood there in the cold, with snow crunching underfoot, I couldn’t help but marvel at the unpredictability of the aurora. Every night, it’s different. No two displays are ever the same, and each one offers something new and exciting. In Paxson, the experience felt more intimate — a reminder that the aurora doesn’t need to be witnessed by crowds; it can be enjoyed by those willing to venture far from the beaten path.
The Endless Drive: Sleep and Sunrise
After two nights of chasing the aurora through Nanana, Fairbanks, and Paxson, I found myself sleep-deprived but satisfied. The nights were long, and the pursuit of the lights meant that I often found myself going to sleep at sunrise, catching a few hours of sleep before venturing back out for the next round of chasing.
There’s a strange kind of beauty in this cycle of late nights and early mornings. The silence of the Alaskan wilderness during the winter months, combined with the unpredictability of the aurora, creates a sense of timelessness. The days blur together — one aurora chase flowing seamlessly into the next.
As I returned home, with the lights of the cities fading behind me and the darkness of the wilderness ahead, I felt a sense of accomplishment. Chasing the aurora is not just about capturing a photograph or even witnessing the lights. It’s about the journey, the connection to the land, and the indescribable feeling of standing beneath the stars and watching the sky come alive.
Conclusion: A Journey Worth Taking
As I look back on my weekend chasing the aurora in interior Alaska, I realize that the lights, though breathtaking, are only part of the story. The real magic lies in the journey itself: the quiet drives through snow-covered roads, the solitude of standing beneath the open sky, and the overwhelming sense of wonder that comes with witnessing one of nature’s most incredible phenomena.
The aurora will always call to me, drawing me back to the wilderness again and again. There’s always a new display to chase, a new moment of beauty to capture, and a new story to tell. Until the next time, the lights will linger in my memory, like the glow